Two meals in Basque Country: a delicious study in contrast
The small autonomous region of Basque Country that stretches across the border of southern France and northern Spain is one of the best places to eat in the world. Nestled between the rugged slopes of the Pyrenees and the Bay of Biscay on the Atlantic, its stunning and varied geography affords plentiful, first-rate ingredients — fish, famous meats like Bayonne ham, red Espelette peppers, wine, and cider, to start — with endless gastric possibilities.
The Basque people know just what to do with this abundance. Proudly, they maintain a distinct culture (the Basque language, Euskera, is Europe’s oldest and has no known link to any other) and vibrant traditions that revolve around cuisine and community. Basque Country routinely produces globally-renowned chefs and boasts nearly 40 Michelin-starred restaurants. This is particularly true of San Sebastian — or Donostia, in Basque — a jewel of a city on the Spanish side that boasts more of the coveted stars per capita than any other place besides Kyoto, Japan.
My partner and I had the good fortune to explore this region last fall. Sampling all its gourmet pleasures would take a lifetime; as it is, I must leave the wonder that is pintxos, or Basque tapas, and the seafood of glitzy resort town Biarritz for another account. Over two memorable days in San Sebastian, however, we…
